![]() ![]() Hole is punctured, it will cause the stove to function When loading and cleaning your stove to not break Located directly above the burner tubes in theįirebox, this white sheet of material will break if As an engineer, it's my personal opinion that this stinks.the ceramic plate is a good idea but it's so unprotected that they have to issue a warning about possibly breaking it while insereting a log and thereby ruining your stoves ability to meet EPA specs ! Then under "downloads", click on the Heritage "manual" and go to pg 6, you'll see their warning about breaking it. It can float any time it wants to but it doesn't. I kinda laugh at the makers that talk about a floating baffle. Ergo, I have one with ceramic fiber board and it is working fine. I would have preferred mine be fire brick because replacement would have been cheaper but the stoves that used it didn't fit other requirements I have in a stove. It is the stove that contains the fire and heat, not the baffle. I am sure the Dutchwest and Harman Exception gang will weigh in soon about their secondary burn chambers which are a different, and kinda neat, arrangement.Īll three are plenty safe. The other two typically have secondary air tubes under the baffles connected to air manifolds in the side of the firebox. The ones with stainless baffles generally have the primary air passages in the baffles. New ones do it with either ceramic fiber board, fire brick or stainless steel baffles in the top. My old stove did it with a 5/16 steel baffle in the top. The main job of a baffle is to slow down the exit of exhaust gases long enough for the secondary burn air to combine with them and burn. My Englander and many of the "high priced spread" use it. ![]() ![]() It is ceramic fiber board and good for temps in the 2400 degree range. ![]()
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